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Walking in The Pyrenees:

Geographical Position: D609 off the D109, which is off the D117 (Perpignan – Quillan or the D118 (Carcassonne – Quillan)

GPS Position North 42 Degrees 52.091’ East 2 Degrees 15.577’

L’Aude is rich in ritualistic paganism and pantheistic beauty, able to change geographically from Tuscany to Devon in an instant. Deep water calm yet able at times to terrify the imagination, an area of innate Latinate machismo that is emerging out of a dark period.

Map of L’Aude
Map of L’Aude - click for larger map

In order to fully slip into and appreciate the atmosphere of L'Aude, it is advisable for women when accompanying their husbands to adopt a respectful mien at all times and to walk at least ten paces behind their men and for the men to adopt a braggadocio saunter, ignore their women as much as possible and with a glass of wine in one hand, throw that pétanque (boules) ball as accurately as possible in the alcoholic circumstances. It is also important to point out that French men regard having a Mistress as being 'de rigueur', so men are prudently advised to occasionally to turn their heads back to check on the dutiful uninterrupted progress of their chattel!

Swallows & Amazons On Our Piranha Pond.
Swallows & Amazons On Our Piranha Pond.

A Very, very Celtic region, the home to some of the most warlike village Rugby teams in the world.

There are thousands of kilometres of well maintained and chevron marked trails suitable for walkers that take you through glorious countryside. I am assured that it is possible to walk the Route de Paye Cathare from Quillan to Barcelona (350 km) and only cross two main roads.

Quillan
Quillan

Walking in the Pyrenees, especially with the Cathare castles as focal points is a very spiritual experience. You can head off into the mist of history on a one-way journey and always rely on us to pick you up at the end of the day. For the more ambitious ramblers, local Sherpa's can be arranged, but oxygen is extra if climbing is anticipated. We had planned for guests to use our pet llamas (Albert and Victoria) as pack animals, but common sense prevailed when we realised that not every one wishes to re-enact the story of Heidi. Yodelling your frustration while chasing these charming, irascible and agile creatures as they disappear up the mountainside with your vital provisions on their back making yet another bid for the freedom of France is only conducive to cardiac problems.

Other areas to visit of a less esoteric nature are the 'Nature' Parks of the only wolf sanctuary in Europe at Ax-les-Thermes, the Birds of Prey Centre at Carcassonne, or the wild animals at Les Angles, the 'Safari' Park at Sigean, the bison and deer at Lapenne and the Butterfly Garden at Lesparrou, which as of yet no one has been brave enough to admit to visiting.


Carcassonne Castle

Take time to visit the extraordinary, fortified medieval city of Carcassonne or Collioure, one of the most beautiful seaside resorts of France, once much favoured by the Impressionist painters. The city of Ax-les-Thermes and the nearby village of Rennes les Bains are spas, famous for their healing sulphur springs and Mirepoix with its medieval vaulting has a good market on Monday mornings.

We are much too close to the wines of the Corbierre, and within easy reach of the beaches of Perpignan (90 km) which is officially the hottest place in France and where all world wind surfing speed records are set in the Gulf de Lyon, which stretches from Marseille down to Barcelona and the ski resorts of Andorra (130 km) and only three hours from Barcelona and two hours to the France/Spanish frontier. If you are in the mood to purchase a new digital camcorder, it is best to make your choice, hold onto your money and then pay a visit to Andorra. It is a duty free Principality where all types of luxury goods can be up to 50% cheaper than in mainland Europe. The drive up there is magnificent and the tax-free price of fuel, alcohol and tobacco more than justifies the day excursion.

Perpignan
Perpignan Castle

There are various summer activities from Tennis in Quillan (a great title for a novel), to the activity centre, also in Quillan where you can risk life and limb with white water rafting, canoeing, mountain climbing and canyoning. It is also possible to hire mountain bikes (VTT).

Mouli d’al Roc - St Julia de Bec - L’Aude - France - E-mail: dalroc1213@aol.com
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Lama
Victoria: Our Pet Llama.